I do belong here: A Conversation with Flo Fortune

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

Editor’s note: The following interview and video essay mentions eating disorders and bullying. Reader discretion is advised.

Why do we take pictures of ourselves? Why do we share them? Why do we want to be published? Why do we desire to wear pieces that transform us–armors wrapped around us, there to reassure us–allowing us to become characters injecting freedom into our lives, and granting us the strength to become ourselves? Why do we give life to handmade creations, conceived by spirits whose thoughts only stop at the first clanking sounds of their sewing machines, or when their threads puncture fabric for the first time? Why do we create threads between all of us? Why do we forge ties? Why do we want to meet each other? Why do we create a human and colorful universe? Why do we inspire each other, and feed each other with beautiful visual stories–the ones that smoothly impact you–remaining embedded in your mind? The ones that give you hope, that beckon you, when leafing through glossy pages or watching a fashion show? 

All these questions suddenly find an answer when Flo Fortune opens the doors of this grand dance studio, enveloped between high trees, sun, and silence. Fortune, a professional model, arises quietly and elegantly, such as the echo of their steps on the floor. They are waiting for one thing only: the camera revolving around them; to catch and control it.

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Marie Marchandise for Also Cool Mag: How would you present yourself? How do you think you are seen? How would you love to be remembered?

Flo Fortune: I’m Flo, a 28-year-old queer, midsize model, social media consultant, mental health advocate, writer, and anorexia survivor. 

I think I am seen as a brave person, as I never shy away from stating the mental health issues I’ve dealt with. Being openly vulnerable, on and offline, isn’t easy, but I know for a fact that it can help people feel less lonely in a society that values so-called perfection and success at all costs.

People might also perceive me as a woman because I’m very femme-presenting, which can be difficult to process sometimes.

I want to be remembered as someone who always did what they thought was right and tried their best to achieve what they wanted, even when it seemed impossible.

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

Also Cool: What is it like to be a model in Paris?

Flo Fortune: No need to sugarcoat it, it’s really hard. Paris is the city of fashion, but in a very traditional way. There is, to this day, very little room for the misfits, fat people, midsize people, people of colour, and disabled people.

For the most part, we simply do not exist, and the ones who made it went through a lot to get there. Diversity isn’t a priority or a goal; it’s mostly a marketing tool. I couldn’t name more than five fat, midsize or nonbinary French models who managed to succeed in France. When it comes to disabled models, it’s like they don’t even exist in the French market. It’s a shame, and I think that the “Parisienne” myth has a lot to do with that.

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

AC: What defines a “good” model, to you?

FF: Someone who isn’t afraid of not looking pretty, who is ready to play a role, to tell a story. Someone who can use their vulnerability, their story, and their strength to create “the shot.” You have to be okay with the fact that you will give a piece of who you are when on set. Not everything has to be about measurements. Agencies are now, more than ever, looking for personalities, people who have a voice, and things to bring to the table.

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

AC: How can fashion be more political? What are the first “baby steps” to make the industry more in sync with our era and society?

FF: There are tons of topics that should be discussed and actions to be taken. Sustainability, access to fashion schools, diversity, and ethical work, to name a few. However, none of these issues will ever be truly discussed since most of the industry is still ruled by white, aging, cis male billionaires.

Brands, Maisons, magazines and agencies have to take responsibility and hire people of colour, disabled people, young people, queer people, and fat people, at every level.

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

AC: Are there any true changes that you’ve spotted?

FF: There are lots of exciting projects that keep me from being pessimistic. For example, I really hope that brands like Marine Serre or Ester Manas, who are getting recognition in France, will inspire others to showcase the same amount of diversity on the runway. Similarly, concerning their sustainable fabric-sourcing, I believe they can influence small designers to consider eco-friendly alternatives and new production processes.

In 2022, I came across many podcasts and Instagram accounts whose goals are to desacralize the fashion industry and share resources. Be it by posting upcycling hacks or addressing issues, such as the colonial dynamics that are still at play within the fashion industry. 

Another thing that comes to my mind is the current debate about nepo babies. We’re finally collectively talking about the fact that most people in fashion don’t come from the working class and that it has to change! 

That being said, I think it’s fair to say that change is being pushed by “small” creators, brands, journalists and so on, and not by those who have the actual power and the means to make a huge positive impact. 

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

AC: What are you hoping to change in the industry?

FF: Let’s face it, I might be queer and midsize, but I’m still a non-fat white person. I know that I have an easier path than others. That being said, I do think that working in this industry, being who I am, knowing where I come from and how narrow-minded the modeling industry is, is already a push in the right direction. Being "a face and a body" isn’t enough. I want to use my voice and work on projects that mean something as much as I can. Be it by working with sustainable, QTBIPOC-led brands, queer photographers, or truly inclusive agencies.

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Flo Fortune by Marie Marchandise

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I do belong here credits

Model: @manicpixiefuckk
MUA: @paulinemakeupro
Hair: @lapetitevictoulouse
Dress: @noemiedevime.paris
Lingerie: @eternel_ephemere_underwear
Nails: @nailedbyines
Jewels: @labricotbleu, @annashelley.fr, @jeannette.atelier, @cecile.dallaglio_jewellery, @maaadboutique
Location: @residencedesartstoulouse  

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Marie Marchandise

Marie Marchandise is a 28-year-old photographer, art director, and PR specialist living in Toulouse, France. When she was a child, she wanted to be a poet. Growing up, she was obsessed with the fact that she actually wanted to be helpful: she wanted to be a vet, a psychologist, or a lawyer. With arts and PR, she combines the inherent desire of her first dream job as a child, and her inner need developed from her teenage years into adulthood.  When she tells visual and written stories with brands, designers, models, and creatives, she contributes to a bigger picture. If you feel something when looking at her photographs or reading her texts, it means that her job is done. If you are inspired, motivated, looking for something new thanks to them, this is more than she could ever dream of. 

Instagram

Flo Fortune 

Fashion is, for me, a tool to get my own emancipation. A way to explore. A means to reach self-definition on its own. Fabrics and textiles represent artistic expressions, helping me to exist. As a child, fashion allowed me to be alive when the rest of the world wanted me to disappear. Today, when I’m wearing clothes, I am always diving somewhere else, into a new universe. Every time. Every day. My individuality is asserted thanks to fashion. I want to be loud. I am clear: I belong here. I am doing this job as I am craving poetry and creativity. I am eagerly looking for different ways and options to communicate and create a sustainable and healthy bond with persons who are not only like me, but inspire me. I want to give back that inspiration, I want to breathe in and breathe out in studios, catwalks, and magazines. I am doing this for the past versions of myself that thought too many times that I needed to suffer and starve myself to create beautiful pictures. I am doing this job to prove that you can fall many times, yet always pick yourself up, stand up, and rise up.

Instagram

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Related Articles

Em&May: Montreal's Women-Run, Sustainable Brand Making a Difference with Inclusive Fashion

Em & May Into Orbit collection

It's rare these days to see a brand say that they're sustainable and size-inclusive actually mean it. Em&May is a small but mighty women-run brand based out of the Mile End in Montreal that focuses on swimwear, lounge, lingerie, and more.  

It's easy to assume that a brand is a massive production because they have a curated Instagram and a sleek website. In reality, Em&May is a small team of young women figuring it out as they go along, taking on every aspect of the business. They do everything themselves, from creating their garments to customer service and even arguing with Canada Post over the phone to keep shipping prices low.

I wanted to showcase the immense amount of hard work that goes into this project and spotlight the women behind it all. Em&May operates on a made-to-order business model. That allows them to produce the least amount of waste possible while also providing a huge sizing range where you can input your measurements to ensure that your clothes fit you perfectly. They're working hard to make their creative dreams come to life while staying true to their values.

I first found the brand a year and a half ago on Instagram and have been following them ever since. It feels good to know the money I spent at Em&May goes right back into sustaining the lives of a group of creative women instead of a huge faceless corporation. 

I've gotten to know Emilie and her amazing team of girls over the last few months and wanted to share a sneak peek of what it's like behind the scenes, so we sat down for an interview. 

Em & May swim

Malaika Astorga for Also Cool: When did creativity enter your life? Did it start with fashion, or did you have other hobbies?

Emilie for Em&May: I used to draw a lot when I was younger. I would come home from school and draw in my notebook, which is where I first became interested in art and creativity. Fashion was something that I always really enjoyed.

My grandma used to take me shopping when I was a kid. She would give me some money to run around the mall to buy whatever I wanted. It was the first time I got to pick things out for myself, and when I started to figure out how I wanted to express myself by developing my sense of style. 

Despite being interested in fashion at a young age, I never really knew I would study design. When I had just graduated high school in Newfoundland, I went to a school called Textiles, Crafts Apparel and Design, which gave me my first experience with sewing. I was so excited to stay late at school to sew my projects. 

Whenever my teachers would give us something to do, I would do three or four. We had the opportunity to have a fashion show and then sell the pieces afterwards, and everyone made maybe five or six garments, and I must've made 30 or 40 pieces. I had an entire collection and extras on top of that. After the show, people could come and shop the pieces, and it was crazy to see people from my high school take an interest in my work.

I had started a Facebook page in school that I would post on all the time, which is how I got my name out there. People began to become a little more aware of what I was doing, which carried over to Em&May, which started when I was in school in Montreal.

I used that Facebook page as the base of the business because I had already accumulated a bit of a following. 

Em & May swim

Also Cool: What's the creative scene like in NL? What was your experience like there creatively?

Em: My school was in downtown Newfoundland, but downtown is not like downtown here. It's not super commercial, it's more where artsy people hang out, and there's a lot of cafes, galleries, and local businesses. There's a creative community down there; it's just less fashion and more painting, pottery, etc. but not necessarily clothing. 

AC: Why did you decide to move to Montreal? What was your first impression of the city?

Em: The main reason was that my mom is from Montreal, and I always loved her side of the family. We would visit once or twice a year, and I really wanted to know them better, so I started looking into the different schools here.

In terms of first impressions, I came to Montreal when I was a kid or with my friends for concerts or shopping. But when you live in Montreal versus when you come to visit, it is completely different. When you visit, you're mostly downtown on St. Catherine, going to all the big box stores, and everything else is just entirely off your radar. 

When I moved here, I started school right away, which was a big adjustment. I got my first job walking down St. Catherine and applied to all those box stores. I got a job at American Apparel, which was my foot in the door to the whole life I've created now. I was only there for a month, and then I got a call for a job from Urban Outfitters, which was my first choice, so I switched over to there. I'm really glad I made that call because that's where I met all my friends, who are even now still a part of the same scene, and two months later, American Apparel shut down.

Em & May sweat set

AC: How did you first get involved with the fashion scene in Montreal?

Em: I met a lot of people through school, and I honestly just said yes to every opportunity given to me. I also engaged with a lot of people and brands that I liked online as well.

When I was in school, the scene was comparable to now. Now it's just so different, especially the side of fashion that I'm a part of now (handmade, sustainable fashion). These are things that I've always been passionate about, but I couldn't have imagined myself going into.

These days people are way more conscious about their money and think a lot about where and who they're buying from. I think the pandemic brought a lot of that into focus. 

Em & May sweat set

AC: What was your collab like with Citizen Vintage? What was a valuable lesson you learned from them?

Em: I love them. A girl I went to school with had a studio assistant position that I took over. I would do adjustments for their vintage clothing, cropping and hemming things. I would repair broken things, help out with the tote bags and other things. 

They were also so good to me when I started Em&May and gave me 24-hour access to their studio to work. School closed at 11, and if I still had projects to do, I would go to their studio and work there instead. They were so helpful and so supportive.

I was still working for them when I did my first-ever collaboration with them. They wanted to make some swim, and I offered to take over that for them. My brand continued to evolve and grow, turning into a bigger collaboration. They've also purchased wholesale from me before, and we did a bunch of different collections together.

They taught me a lot about planning collections, sizing breakdowns, wholesale and consignment. They guided me through that process, so I had a better idea of what was expected when I got deals with other stores and companies. 

Em & May Into Orbit collection

AC: How do you incorporate sustainability into your practice?

Em: When people ask about sustainability, they usually ask about fabric, sourcing, and fibre content, which we pay a lot of attention to. Most of our fabrics are made from either deadstock or natural organic fibres. Our swim is made from Econyl, which is made from ocean waste and plastic bottles. We had also made an activewear collection made of plastic bottles last year. We're always trying to find different OEKO-TEX certified innovation fabrics.

In terms of packaging and shipping, all our materials, paper, boxes, water-activated tapes, etc., are made from 100% recycled paper. We function on a made-to-order business model, which means that we only make what has been ordered to have the least amount of waste possible. 

Also, I can pay my employees more than a living wage. There's not a huge amount of production in Montreal anymore, and not many people who graduate end up working as a seamstress. So what's fun about Em&May is that we're able to build off each other and sustain each other's lives because of our business. Our process is also super collaborative, and everyone has creative freedom.

AC: What are some of your favourite spots in Montreal? Any favourite memories to share?

Em: I am a coffee addict, so I love Olimpico and Gamba. I also really enjoy martinis, especially after a long week, so I go to Henrietta, Majestique, and other cute, low-key places.

Em & May Into Orbit collection

AC: What's been the most rewarding thing about running Em&May? How do you feel like you've grown as a person & artist because of the brand?

Em: I think it's awesome that we can be such a small team and are constantly creating pieces that we want to do without a timeline, but also that we're creating pieces with such a huge size range. We have no restrictions for sizing at all so that anyone can buy from us. 

It's rewarding to have an idea, I tell the girls, and then we sit down and talk about it – and two days later, it's done and on the website. We don't have to wait six months to a year for these ideas to come to life. 

AC: Do you have any small businesses / other artists you'd like to shout out?

Em: Definitely @va1sseau and @rachelsudbury! 

AC: What's next for Em&May?

Em: This year I want to be more creative in a way that goes outside of traditional fashion. A lot is coming that's not necessarily ready-to-wear and is more like wearable art. We're going to be incorporating more statement pieces, avant-garde, wearable art with non-traditional elements.

You can meet Emilie and the Em&May team this weekend at our Holiday Pop Up this Saturday, December 11th, from 12-6. See our Instagram post for details. 

Em & May Valley bralette

Em&May

Website I Instagram I Facebook I TikTok

Malaika Astorga is the Co-Founder & Creative Director of Also Cool. She is a Mexican-Canadian visual artist, writer, and social media strategist currently based in Montreal.

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Bad Wrld Launches Sustainable Bath and Loungewear Spring/Summer 22 Collection (Danica Olders)

via Bad Wrld

If there's one thing I know for sure, it's that I want to be comfortable. We all know that loungewear has taken the world by storm over the past year and a half. It's since become a staple in our lives, impacted style trends, and at least for me personally, how I dress on a day-to-day basis.

But let's be clear, just because I want to be comfy doesn't mean I want to look like a pile of blankets. And in a world of over-consumption, if you're going to buy, why not buy from more sustainable and ethical brands?

Today we're premiering a collection that checks all those boxes and more, Bad Wrld. Bad Wrld is a luxury fashion brand specializing in one-off, custom and limited edition robes and accessories for after swim, bath, spa, club, or just to lounge in. The robes range from more classic belted robes to cute fits of towel shorts and cropped jacket tops.

The collection debuts with a beautiful video and photo series shot by Ariana Molly, which you can watch below.

via Bad Wrld

The brand is designed and made by Danica Olders, utilizing recycled towels and 100% cotton terry cloth as ethically and slowly as possible. Bad means bath in Dutch, which Olders discovered on a trip visiting family in the Netherlands as a child who couldn't find the restroom.

The new collection for Spring/Summer 22 is called "Bath" and features seven original looks of 12 style variations, all done in monochrome white and grey, showcasing the design features available when ordering something custom.

Danica Olders is a Canadian transdisciplinary artist interested in space. Not like outer space but the space between people; the distance from a person to their connected walls/objects, the ownership felt of said spaces and the interactive energy possessed by them.

Her work is highly symbolic and largely based on humour. It is direct yet animated and friendly, easy to be near while maintaining socially charged ideas underneath the playful surfaces. The work is surreal, abstract and often practical, appearing as paintings, murals, graphic designs, costumes/fashion, digital animation, sculpture and installation of some or all of the above.

Olders has worked with numerous musical and visual artists creating costumes and visuals (VJ) for performances, album artwork, music videos, promotional material and merch. She has produced her own clothing labels, The Lost City (2012-16), Bad Wrld, luxury bathrobes (2020). She has been involved in the art direction of various establishments in Montreal such as Bar Pamplemousse, Le Mal Necessaire and Bar Kabinet, designing and producing murals, signage and silk-screened wallpaper.

Watch the Bad Wrld runway below

BAD WRLD

Website I Instagram

CREDITS

In order of appearance: Philippe Minkoué, Petr Barykine, Paige Walker, Marius Mevold, Julio Mendy, Audrey Mcdiarmid, Jessica Johnston

Camera Operator: Ian Cameron

Camera Operator: Jonathan Durand

Aerial Camera Operator: Sharif Mirshak/Parafilms

Original Music by Dapapa

Mixed and Mastered at Breakglass Studios by James Benjamin

Field Recordings by James Benjamin

Makeup Artist: Dahlia Doe

Photographer: Ariana Molly

Assistant Director: Laura Acosta

Production Assistant: Zander Blanchard

BTS Camera Op: Sam Rae

Transmission Executive Producer: James Benjamin

Transmission Producer: Ian Cameron

Executive Producer: Danica Olders

Director: Danica Olders

Co-Director: Ian Cameron

BATH by BAD WRLD - designed and fabricated by Danica Olders

Special thanks to: Anisa Cameron, Garret Douherty, Connor McComb, Lukas McComb, Mara Franco, Stacy Lee, Sherry Luger and Michael Mikelberg

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I’m For No One’s Consumption But My Own: Meet NYC Treasure Kitty

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Kitty, edited by peachy_kai

In our era of “the everyday celebrity,” where creators’ means of gaining a reputation and fanbases are (sometimes) dictated by social media savviness and a viral appeal, one roadblock remains: authenticity. Across all forms of creative expression, the timeless questions of “Why do artists do what they do?” and by extension “Who are they, really?” are always on the table, especially now that creators willingly let us peer into their everyday lives online. A few odd years ago seeing artists “just being themselves” could majorly stain their image. Now, the advent of “get ready with me” and “day in the life” style social media segments humanize, and even glamourize, the day-in and day-out of lived experiences. In other words, the exposé has retired and vulnerability has been readily embraced. Relatability is in, and can even be your ticket to widely received recognition via innovative corners of the Internet. At the same time, the idea of online availability trickling down into how success is born and raised also threatens how people are treated by their audiences.

With little barriers between creators and consumers, the pressing question becomes “How do creatives preserve and care for their sense of self when so much of it has to be on display in order to stand out?” This theme was at the core of my conversation with Kitty, a multidisciplinary visual and makeup artist, fashion designer and model, who uses social media to showcase their creative portfolio and network within the fashion industry and beauty community. 

On the surface, Kitty and I actually have a lot in common. We’re both 23 years old, earth signs, and are living with our parents after graduating post-secondary during the pandemic. Though we share a “just figuring it out” mentality, there is, of course, one key difference between us: their 35.9K following on Instagram. Through chatting with Kitty, I learned that the upkeep of their artistic passions, in tandem with their social media presence, is made entirely possible by staying true to their biggest source of inspiration, themselves. 

“When it comes to my creativity, a lot of people ask, and are surprised, when I say that I’m mainly my own source of inspiration,” they say with a small smirk across their face. “I’m like, what do you mean who inspires me? Why does it have to be somebody else? To me, being a real artist and a real creative doesn’t mean you can’t find inspiration in others, but basing my drive off someone other than myself is something I’ve never experienced or felt,” they add. 

For Kitty, self-reliance is a must and comes naturally when conceptualizing new projects. From a young age, they’ve always been encouraged to pursue creative freedom, and continue to reject being boxed-in when it comes to self-expression. Their looks combine ethereal whimsy with the underground edge of their hometown of NYC, adorning them with a presence that exudes originality. Much of their determination is evidenced by the origin of their name and artistic outlook. 

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Self-portrait conceptualized, created, styled, shot and edited by the artist

“I’ve been in love with cats since I was a little kid. I remember I used to go to art school and they would get so upset with me because all I wanted to do was draw cats,” they laugh. “My instructors couldn’t understand why, but cats always represented much more to me than just my favourite animal,” they explain. “I’ve done a lot of research on their symbolism, and cats represent the concept of one’s inner-child and a sense of playfulness, and how to embrace that. My connection to cats brought my work to life… [It’s] just very magical, and also very safe. I feel like that’s my energy, and how I want people to feel when they see my work.” 

This story was made a little sweeter by the fact that they had a kitschy kitten poster behind them during our Zoom call. 

Kitty also expressed that their relationship with their inner, imaginative world has only come to life in a tangible way after learning to cultivate their distinctive sense of style.

“Since I graduated high school I’ve gone through so much shit. Back then, I didn’t really know who I was. Though I still added my own personal touch when it came to how I expressed myself, I still felt like I had to be a ‘certain type of girl.’ Back then, I didn’t even know I was non-binary, and I wasn’t surrounded with the right people who allowed me to feel more fluid in myself,” they articulate. “In terms of my evolution, I’ve really learned to free myself from norms that were pushed onto me, and there’s no going back.” 

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Self-portrait conceptualized, created, styled, shot and edited by the artist

Though much of Kitty’s growth was made possible by nurturing self-acceptance, sharing it with the world via social media unexpectedly lead to online admiration; much to their surprise considering their humble intentions. 

“As I always like to say, I don’t think people realized that I started from my fucking basement,” they giggle. “I didn’t have a tripod and I didn’t have a ring light. I just had some backdrops, and you know, I would do a fun makeup look here and there. That’s when people started reaching out to me, and I realized diving into the industries I was interested in was possible.” 

Kitty tells me that while the start of their online buzz brought professional opportunities in the world of beauty and fashion, the downside of broadcasting their personal brand on a public platform has made for a lot of challenges. Like a lot of online creators, Kitty struggles with maintaining boundaries and managing their followers’ expectations. 

“Personally, it feels like I’m never enough for some people, you know?” they begin. “I’m very grateful for all the love and support I get, but at the same time, I get overwhelmed because people feel very entitled to my time and personal life.”  

Just as they were about to make another point, Kitty noticed an Instagram DM notification pop up on their phone, and read it out-loud to me. 

“Hi, if you don’t mind me asking, how did you pay your bills when you were just starting to model, what were you doing?” 

They roll their eyes, sigh and smile. The timing is a little much for both of us. 

“Yeah, like you see?!” they exclaim. “I can only give you so much of me and my experience. I do joke a lot, saying that I’m not real… But, I am a real person. I have feelings and things I need to process… I don’t always want to be perceived. At the end of the day, I’m for no one’s consumption but my own.” 

Laughing off this note of frustration, Kitty and I got on the subject of how they’re learning to self-advocate on social media, and how much of it draws from protecting their art, as so much of it comes from a sentimental and intimate place. 

“People are so used to me being sweet and nice, but one thing I refuse to be silent about lately is the makeup community not understanding the difference between recreation and inspiration. Another part of people wanting too much from me is when they say they’re ‘inspired’ by me and use that as justification to recreate my look without properly crediting me, especially with my rhinestone looks,” they share. “People might label me as being a bully or being mean, but I’m tired of being accused of gatekeeping when I’m defending something that fully represents me.” 

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Self-portrait conceptualized, created, styled, shot and edited by the artist

I then asked Kitty how they keep up their momentum and stay grounded within these circumstances, realizing how exhausting they must be. 

“I feel like everything really comes full circle. Everything I have has really just started from myself, and I can’t lose sight of that because I want others to get there. For example, I’ve been working my way into the modelling industry since I was 19, and it’s very toxic. I realize now, after walking fashion week at 5’5, that I can break the mold and inspire people who have features like mine; models who are short and have weird noses, or like a nose bump… any kind of nose, and any body type. Even though I still deal with people who try to manipulate and undermine me, and who expect me to work for free… I want to always give back to others because I feel like when you give back, the universe will return it to you eventually, you know?” My friends remind me that not everyone is going to want to come with me on my journey, but that leaves room for new people and new energy.” 

In closing our conversation, Kitty tells me what they’re looking forward to in 2021 after undergoing so much self-discovery in the past year. 

“I feel like what I was missing before was the self-love that I started finding in 2020. I think a lot of that translates into my work now, and I hope people recognize that I am much happier. I’ve got some exciting collabs coming up in the future and my website is growing. Even though things are uncertain in the world right now, one thing I learned in the past year was to do all the things [I was] afraid to do. I want to carry that energy forward and continue to evolve.” 

Kitty shot by estherfromnewyork for uzumakigallery

Kitty (They/Them)

Website | Instagram | TikTok | Youtube

Zoë Argiropulos-Hunter (She/Her) is the Co-Founder and Editor of Also Cool Mag. Aside from the mag, she is a music promoter & booker, radio host & DJ, and a musician.

This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

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Meet ONYX Bodywear: The Size-Inclusive, Vancouver-Based Lingerie Brand

Model is wearing the V harness, Garter belt, G-string (with lace) and Double Strap leg garters by ONYX Bodywear Model River Rusalka I Photographer Jamie Edgar Photography

For ONYX, the individual brings the product to life.  

Feeling sexy should not be constrained to body types portrayed in the media. Everyone deserves the opportunity to embrace their divinity and sexiness within. Founder Sandra Haney introduces ONYX Bodywear as a, “Proudly inclusive, accessible, body and sex-positive Canadian brand. Each product is a statement piece - whether that be edgy/alternative or sexy is up to the customer.” Haney spoke with me about the story behind ONYX and their mission for body-positive lingerie. 

When COVID-19 restrictions eased in B.C. this summer, I stumbled onto The Hive Home & Gifts, a boutique in Squamish with clothes and miscellaneous items from local designers. After noticing me gazing at the tantalizing strappy harness on display, a salesperson informed me that a woman-owned company crafted it in Vancouver. Sliding my fingers along the straps, I felt dedication in ONYX’s stitching. Compared to similar harnesses I had bought online, which held no grip and ripped after a night of dancing. The material was soft yet durable and also vegan as it was all elastic strapping. 

Haney says “We stand by the quality and the fact our products can change for when your body changes.” The customer can adjust key straps so they can wear the harness for hours comfortably and fit it perfectly for their body shape. ONYX’s approach is creating products as one-size-fits-most as they can adjust from XS to XXL (or more) depending on the style. 

Model is wearing Black choker, Criss-Cross cage bra, G-string (with mesh) and Cheeky harness by ONYX Bodywear Model River Rusalka I Photographer Jamie Edgar Photography

Haney’s story begins with a shopping trip for her 40th birthday. She ventured into various boutiques in Vancouver on the lookout for intimate fetish-inspired apparel - returning home with hundreds of dollars worth of lingerie. Unsatisfied with her haul because of inconsistency in fit and style- the customization process unfolded. “I looked at basically a pile of elastic, lace and mesh and thought I could make this myself!”  She believes that some boutiques fail to supply quality, affordable lingerie that adapts to different body shapes. Budget-friendly items seem to be mass-produced packaged in plastic film or the more luxurious brands come at an exorbitant price. There was a gap in finding something in between with the strappy style she was searching for

Shortly after Haney met up with a long-time friend and former colleague Alison Palmer for their semi-regular bitch and stitch session. Haney mentioned the idea to make some harnesses or cage wear and together, designs for ONYX Bodywear began. Haney says that “ [we] shared a creative synergy that extended beyond our professional relationship and friendship, and ONYX was born out of that.” 

ONYX’s humble beginnings as an Etsy shop producing sexy accessories for everybody. Haney never set out to create products for wholesale. However, that changed in 2018 when Palmer strolled into Your Open Closet,  the sister-shop of Womyn's Ware, known for its sex-positive values including toys and sexual health items for folks hoping to transform their self-care routine. “A big thing we represent is that feeling sexy and looking sexy is healthy and good - for themselves - or however they want to do it,” says Haney. 

Palmer was her business partner during the early stages - helping out with start-up, design and production up until 2018 when she left to concentrate on her full-time career. They remain close friends and ONYX still carries one of Palmer’s original designs:  the diamond cage bra that makes everyone feel like royalty. 

Needing a partner to help the business grow, Haney recruited her friend of almost 30 years, Marga Devam, to help. Devam is based in Edmonton and supports ONYX in design, manufacturing and sales

Model is wearing Black choker and the Criss-Cross cage bra by ONYX Bodywear Model River Rusalka I Photographer Jamie Edgar Photography

Despite the simplicity of their designs, the manufacturing process is time-consuming. “It takes a long time to assemble with a lot of attention to quality work and details - definitely not fast fashion and makes labour costs higher.” Before each harness reaches consumers, the ONYX team designs a prototype, adjusts, sews alterations and revises until they have a final product that meets their standard. ONYX’s website features a limited selection of cage bras, harnesses and garters - of several distinct designs that change once or twice a year.

 "We are a small operation, so compared to some other brands we operate lean and produce many of our orders on-demand, so there is no wastage," says Haney. Currently, in addition to Devam, she has two part-time seamstresses sewing their products. 

Pre-COVID, ONYX attended trade shows to help grow the brand and connect with consumers. Haney says people would commonly remark, “I love your stuff, but there is no way this will fit me!” She challenges them to try it anyway. After they try on one of our products they feel sexy, strong and empowered,  “it’s a rush every single time - it just makes you feel so good when you see something you’ve made make someone feel that way.” 

Haney recognizes that ONYX designs a niche product that will not fit everyone’s taste. The harness allure is more likely to interest a crowd looking for an alternative or edgy look. The stretch of the strapping does not work for those interested in exploring their kink for leather and bondage. However, strappy fashion is becoming more mainstream which also speaks for ONYX’s versatility beyond erotic fashion. Haney says, “you can wear [the harness] with your most utility, comfortable bra and daytime outfit, and it just takes it up a notch - so there is that versatility for boudoir and every day.” 

You can purchase ONYX’s products at various brick and mortar shops in the Pacific Northwest, Alberta, the Midwest of the USA and even Kenya. Haney says “We are a local brand and our growth has been careful baby steps, but we are moving in the right direction.” 

Model River Rusalka I Photographer Jamie Edgar Photography

ONYX

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Alexis Zygan

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Dutch Fashion Label Elzinga Talks Growing Up in the DIY Music Scene & Feminist Fashion Inspiration & More

Via Elzinga

Elzinga is an up-and-coming Dutch fashion label that recently took over Paradiso during Amsterdam Fashion Week. They debuted their latest collection on the all-girl punk band The Klittens, catching the attention of Forbes and many others. The collection speaks to and honours the nightlife scene while simultaneously reflecting the "silence" with this collection's simpler shapes.

We spoke to Lieselot Elzinga, Co-Founder & Creative Director of Elzinga, to get to know more about the brand.

Via Elzinga

Malaika for Also Cool: Tells us a bit about Elzinga. How did it start and how has it evolved over time?

Lieselot Elzinga: We started the brand Elzinga together back in 2018. Miro and I had just graduated from the Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam. Following the great response to our graduation collection, we decided to start a brand together. We got in touch with Parrot Agency, a design sales agency based in Amsterdam. They coached us through translating our grad collection to a more sellable product with the same rock-’n-roll energy and spark.

Now after releasing a few collections on MatchesFashion I feel like we have learned to work and reach our clientele. Our designs are definitely influenced by our experiences with our buyers and our clients.

Via Elzinga

 Also Cool: What's the fashion and music scene like where Elzinga is based? How has that affected the label creatively?

Elzinga: Elzinga is based in Amsterdam. I was brought up in the middle of the music scene in Amsterdam. It's basically the core of the brand. The music scene in Amsterdam is small, but there is a lot of variety. Many bands are always sprouting from this tiny scene, and that is very inspiring to me as a designer. 

I used to play a lot around the Netherlands from a very early age with my teenage girl band Fuz . As a girl group, we really figured out how to use fashion as a tool to gain more confidence and power on stage. If you are on stage, you want to convey a very direct and clear message. You want the moment you walk on stage to be powerful and you want the audience to react. This is basically our brand ethos; we want our designs to be simple and direct in shape, but still extravagant and a little rough around the edges. 

Via Elzinga

 AC: How did Elzinga decide to pair up with The Klittens for this show?

Elzinga: With our last show, we wanted to highlight the importance of live music and individual expression in today's society. We did our presentation in the legendary music venue Paradiso in Amsterdam, a place where big bands and performers took the stage (pre corona). It is also a place that nurtures the local music scene, a scene that has been hit hard by the coronavirus. 

We choose The Klittens to play during our presentation first because we love their music, but second because they are a young all girl group that really needs to be supported in a man's world like the music industry. I have experienced first hand what it is like to be an outsider in the music industry and I really feel like we need to push for diversity as a brand. 

Via Elzinga

AC: What are some of the label's inspirations? Musically and visually?

Elzinga: As a brand we are extremely inspired by different influences. Early garage music like Suicide and bands like the Cramps and the Breeders are a huge inspiration to us. We really find the DIY element in our aesthetic extremely important in our visual identity. 

Visually I feel extremely inspired by artists such as Cleas Oldenburg, especially his early performance work he did in NYC called 'The Store' I also find inspiration in artists such as Keith Haring and Penck. 

I like simplicity and direct expression when it comes to visual art, which also shows in our use of simplistic prints and shapes.

Via Elzinga

 AC: What's something unexpected about the world of fashion that Elzinga had to learn along the way in order to succeed?

Elzinga: Something you definitely don't learn in art school is to think about your clients and the people who will buy your brand and will support you as a designer. We find it so interesting to listen to our clients feedback and in that way pin point what the Elzinga woman is about and how her life is and what she want to look like and radiate to the outside world. 

Via Elzinga

 AC: How can we best support Elzinga right now?

 Elzinga: It's so important to support small brand and labels at this time. Like any other small brand, follow what we are up to, check out our new collections and projects and maybe consider buying one of our products in the future :)

Elzinga

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